WGT Pinhunters

Over the last couple of months, I have had several people enquire about my calculations. I have not responded. The reason there has been strong reluctance is that these calculations have matured over years of practice, and most would regard them as trade secrets earned. However, I am feeling particularly generous today.

 

Notes: 1. These calculations are subject to debate and should only be used as a rough guideline;

2. Depending on which course you play, there are deviations in the measurements; 

3. Depending on the environment of the shot (confronting slope, wind etc.), there are many deviations in the calculations;

4. I strongly recommend the use and availability of a calculator;

5. Different courses produce significantly different green speeds;

6. Different clubs and balls produce different calculations.

 

Ok, let's get started... WIND (a very common query!) Nothing is set in stone. A 14mph wind is very different at St. Andys than it is at Congressional (CCC). At St. Andys, you feel it. At CCC, it seems soft. Keep in mind spin is a massive factor in relation to the impact of wind. Backspin elevates the ball making the impact of wind much stronger.

 

Consider the following examples:

1. Cleveland wedges: leaving spin at center dot; 93yd approach; facing a 20mph wind. Play a full 100 wedge.

2. R11 irons: leaving spin at center dot; 118yd approach; facing a 20mph wind. Play a full 120 PW (the slight increase in distance from a center dot and the lower ball flight counter the wind).

3. R11 irons: Full back-spin (b/s) 200yd approach; facing a 20mph wind. Play a 3I at 220-225.

 

The 3I at full b/s subtracts some distance, and with the elevated height from b/s at that distance I work with about, add 1yd - per 1mph wind in face. Wind is a tricky beast. It is very hard to set in stone calculations, as in most instances it is based on feel/experience and environment. However, given the allowance of room to run, I am increasingly using mid-top spin with excellent results when wind is in face. Try it. 

 

ROUGH 10%-15%: ignore. 20%-25%: for peace of mind I add 1% (lol). The concern is not the difference in distance, rather the reduced effect of spin. 30%-40%: Add 10% (multiply by 1.1). Note, the last 3-5% of the journey is likely to be run with irons, so be conscious of the slope you are facing. 40%-50%: Add 20% (multiply by 1.2). Note, the last 10%+ of the journey is likely to be run. Be conscious of slope. For maximum distance (e.g. on a par 5), hit a punch 3w.

 

Be conscious of spin: maximum b/s tends to suck a lot of power. Above 50% rough, for example deep rough and weeds, don't try and get too cute. Swallow your medicine. Take out a full 100yd wedge and play it smart.

 

BUNKERS

 

15%-20%: Add 5% (multiply by 1.05). Be conscious of run. Use your putter to study the green slope. Around the green a flop shot is very handy. 30%-40%: Add 15% (multiply by 1.15). Be conscious of run. Study the green first. A 20yd flop shot (full b/s) can be stretched to 13yds (flat run) from this bunker. From a fairway bunker, for maximum distance from this depth, with a low bunker face, try a punch 3I. 40%-50%: Add 25% (multiply by 1.25). Be very conscious of run. By this I mean, if facing an uphill slope, add. Downhill slope, subtract. Study the green slope.

 

UP-HILL & DOWN-HILL APPROACHES

 

 Steep downhill slopes present multiple challenges. The effect of wind is much stronger; the ball is likely to bite rapidly etc. Steep up-hill slopes are just as tricky. The main concern being the lack of ability for the ball to bite. Down-hill, for each 3ft down, I subtract about 1yd from the distance. However, wind becomes a very strong factor.

 

Up-hill, for each 3ft up, I add under 1yd to the distance. The ball will not bite steep uphill (mid-iron+), so provide allowance and consideration for the ball to run. If you have a wedge in hand, the calculations change drastically, as it is still "drop & stop" and the height produced from the wedges dampens the impact of the elevation.

 

GREENS

 

"Drive for show, putt for dough" The Mother of all beasts. The difference between someone who plays everyday, and someone who rocks up on an ad-hoc basis is best demonstrated on greens. I can play the long game rapidly based on instincts, however with putting, I need to study the stroke.

 

Make putting your best friend and this game seems simple. On putts under 10ft, the dreaded mistake is leaving it short. Simply put, if it is short it has very, very little chance of going in (in golf talk they say 99% chance of not going in). If you're adjusting to a new green speed, in my books the perfect roll is 1-2ft past.

 

With plenty of experience the exact weight can be found. The joy of the exact weight is that it makes the hole twice as big. On short putts, give it a try. On long putts, try the following calculations to get a very warm weight. Note: Green speeds vary significantly on different courses! On uphill putts you need to add distance, and on downhill putts be conscious that they can be very fast. These calculations are a guideline strictly for flat putts (based on my experience with the Nike putter).

 

Tournament greens: multiply distance by 0.77

Championship greens: multiply distance by 0.7

 

The effect of green speeds is best demonstrated at the Olympic Club (Oly) and Oakmont. The best of players will need to be fully focused to conquer these greens. Up-hill they are slow. On Championship greens, I work with 1 ft per 1 inch in elevation. On downhill putts they are lightning fast. I was facing a putt at Oakmont the other day: 12ft down 10 inches. Tapped it 2ft, and it went 13ft past. Take your time when putting. Look at the following 2 quotes: "I may be the only golfer never to have broken a single putter, if you don't count the one I twisted into a loop and threw into a bush" ~ Thomas Boswell "It's a marriage. If I had to choose between my wife and my putter, well, I'd miss her." ~ Gary Player Love your putter. Make it your best WGT friend. Tell yourself the hole is the size of a bucket.